Concrete driveways cracks, sealing, and stains—what’s normal and what to do
New driveway showing faint lines? Relax—flat hairline cracks are normal, and with a sensible sealing schedule and concrete-safe cleaning your slab will stay sharp;
Madera Concrete Pros
8/27/20253 min read


Concrete driveways in California: cracks, sealing, and stains, what’s normal and what to do
You poured a new driveway (or you’re trying to revive an old one) and three questions keep circling: why is it cracking, how often should you seal it, and what actually lifts oil, rust, and leaf stains without making things worse? This guide gives you straight answers with just enough detail to act on confidently.
Why do new driveways crack? What’s normal vs. not?
Most hairline cracks with no height difference are normal; wide or raised cracks that keep growing are not.
Fresh concrete shrinks a little as it cures. Hot afternoons, cool nights, and day-to-day use make it move—control joints are there to guide that movement. So if you’re seeing thin, straight hairlines near joints or corners that don’t create a lip you can catch with your shoe, that’s the usual story and not a failure.
What isn’t normal: a crack you can feel underfoot, gaps pushing past the eighth-inch mark, or patterns that wander far from joints and keep spreading. Those often point to soft base in a corner, tree roots, or drainage that needs correcting. Take a couple of dated photos, keep heavy loads off the new slab for a few weeks, and seal any larger gaps with a flexible concrete crack filler to keep water out. If water pools along a crack or a panel feels loose, get a pro to assess it early rather than waiting.
How often should I seal a concrete driveway in California?
Plan on resealing every 2–5 years with a breathable penetrating sealer, after the slab has fully cured.
Our sun is unforgiving, especially on west-facing garage aprons. A penetrating sealer (the kind that soaks in and doesn’t leave a film) helps repel water and stains while keeping the natural look. Decorative driveways that use color or stamping sometimes get a film-forming sealer for extra pop, but those need more frequent refresh and can feel slick on slopes, so match the product to the layout.
Give a new pour time to cure first—roughly a month is a safe rule. Pick a mild, dry day so the surface isn’t hot to the touch. Not sure if it’s time to reseal? Sprinkle water. If it darkens fast instead of beading, your driveway is asking for a refresh. A good seal job looks even, doesn’t puddle, and comes with clear guidance on when you can walk (often same day) and park (typically a day or two, product-dependent).
Oil, rust, and leaf stains: what works without damaging the surface?
Draw the stain out first, then clean gently with concrete-safe products—test a small spot, use a nylon brush, avoid harsh acids.
Oil and grease are all about patience. Start by pulling up the fresh spill with absorbent material and time, not scrubbing. Once the shine is gone, move to a concrete-safe degreaser and a nylon brush. For the stubborn dark spot that’s left behind, make a poultice—think paste of degreaser and a fine absorbent—spread it, cover loosely, let it dry, then scrape and rinse. Fresh spills lift fastest, so keeping a small bag of oil-dry in the garage is worth it.
Rust usually comes from sprinklers, metal furniture feet, or fertilizer. Pre-wet the area so cleaner doesn’t dive too deep, then use a rust remover formulated for concrete. Work in short cycles: apply, light scrub, brief dwell, thorough rinse. Avoid muriatic acid; it can etch the surface and leave a “fixed” spot that looks worse than the stain.
Leaf and tannin marks respond to oxygenated cleaners and sunlight. Rinse dust first, apply the cleaner per label, give it a gentle scrub, rinse off, then let a couple of clear days finish the job. Tire scuffs? Try a citrus-based cleaner or a concrete-safe degreaser and moderate elbow grease. If your driveway is sealed and a mark won’t budge, test anything stronger in a hidden corner first.
Pressure washers can help, but they can also carve lines if the tip is too close or the fan is too tight. Keep it moving and avoid “writing” on the slab.
Bottom line
Normal hairlines are part of concrete; a sensible sealing rhythm and gentle, concrete-safe cleaning keep the surface looking good for years.
If you keep water out of bigger cracks, reseal on a steady schedule with the right product, and treat stains early with an absorb-then-clean approach, your driveway will drain right, wear evenly, and stay easy to live with.
Planning your budget next?
If you’re collecting bids or mapping square footage, take a minute to read our companion guide: cost-and-budgeting-concrete-driveways-in-california. It shows real-world price bands and explains what actually moves the number up or down so you can compare quotes fairly.